A drip from the spout is almost always a worn washer (compression faucets) or a worn cartridge (single-handle and ball faucets). A drip from around the handle or base is an O-ring or packing issue. Identify your faucet type first — then the repair is straightforward. Most homeowners can fix a dripping faucet themselves in under an hour with parts from a hardware store.
A dripping faucet is almost always caused by a worn internal seal — either a rubber washer, O-ring, or cartridge that no longer closes completely when the handle is turned off. It’s one of the most common household plumbing repairs and one of the most DIY-accessible. The parts cost $5–$25 and the job takes under an hour in most cases. Here’s how to identify what type of faucet you have, find the worn part, and fix it.
How to Fix a Dripping Faucet Yourself
The repair process depends on faucet type. Here’s the overview for the three most common types:
Compression faucets (two handles, older style):
1. Shut off the supply valves under the sink (hot and cold)
2. Remove the handle — usually one screw under a decorative cap
3. Unscrew the packing nut and pull out the stem
4. At the bottom of the stem is a rubber washer held by a brass screw — replace it
5. Reassemble, turn on the supply, test
Cartridge faucets (single-handle or two-handle, most common in modern homes):
1. Shut off supply valves
2. Remove the handle (one screw, usually under a cap)
3. Pull or unscrew the cartridge — it slides straight out on most Moen faucets
4. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to match it, or look up the faucet model number
5. Install the new cartridge, reassemble, test
Ball faucets (single-handle, rotate the handle to mix):
1. Shut off supply valves
2. Remove the handle and unscrew the cap
3. Inside is a rotating ball, two valve seats, and two springs — replace all of them (buy a kit)
4. Reassemble in reverse order, test
TIP: Take a photo of the disassembled faucet before removing any parts. The order of washers, O-rings, and retaining clips varies by model, and a photo saves significant reassembly confusion.
How Much Does It Cost to Fix a Dripping Faucet?
DIY cost:
– Replacement washer or O-ring kit: $3–$8
– Replacement cartridge (brand-specific): $10–$35 depending on faucet brand
– Ball faucet repair kit: $10–$20
– Total with tools (if you don’t own them): $25–$60
With a plumber (Seattle 2026 rates):
– Service call / first hour: $95–$175
– Cartridge replacement during service call: $125–$200 total
– Ball faucet rebuild during service call: $150–$275 total
Most plumbers complete a dripping faucet repair in one visit. If the faucet is older or a less common brand and the cartridge is unavailable, they may recommend replacement of the faucet entirely — typical faucet replacement runs $200–$450 installed.
Why Does My Faucet Drip After I Turn It Off?
A faucet that drips specifically after it’s turned off has a seal that’s no longer making complete contact. The water pressure in the supply line pushes past the worn seal and out through the spout.
The specific part that’s worn depends on faucet type:
– Compression faucet: The rubber washer at the base of the stem is worn flat or has cracked
– Cartridge faucet: The cartridge’s ceramic or rubber seating surfaces have worn or cracked
– Ball faucet: The valve seats or springs inside the ball mechanism are worn
– Ceramic disc faucet: The ceramic disc has cracked or mineral deposits are preventing full closure
Age and water quality are the main factors. A faucet in service for 10+ years in an area with moderate mineral content will wear its seals faster than one in service for 5 years in soft water. In the Tacoma area with moderately hard water, cartridges may need replacement every 7–10 years; in Seattle’s softer water, 12–15 years is more typical.
How Much Water Does a Dripping Faucet Waste?
More than most homeowners expect:
| Drip rate | Gallons per day | Gallons per year |
|---|---|---|
| 1 drip per second | 3 gallons | 1,095 gallons |
| 2 drips per second | 6 gallons | 2,190 gallons |
| Steady trickle | 20+ gallons | 7,300+ gallons |
At Seattle Public Utilities rates (approximately $0.008 per gallon in 2026), a 1-drip-per-second faucet wastes roughly $8–$9 per month on the water bill — about $100 per year. A steady trickle can cost $50–$60 per month.
Beyond the cost, a faucet that drips into a sink 24 hours a day accelerates drain staining and may contribute to mineral buildup in the drain. It’s worth fixing even if the cost seems modest.
Is a Dripping Faucet an Emergency or Can It Wait?
A dripping faucet is not an emergency — no risk of water damage, flooding, or safety hazard. It can wait days or weeks without becoming a crisis.
That said, there are reasons not to wait indefinitely:
– The drip rate typically worsens over time as the worn seal continues to degrade
– Water waste adds up (see table above)
– In Seattle, a dripping faucet is a waste of a resource that SPU charges for by the gallon
– A cartridge that’s failing now may fail completely later, potentially causing a continuous flow that requires an urgent shutoff
The practical guidance: schedule the repair within a few weeks. Don’t treat it as urgent, but don’t ignore it for months either.
Dripping Faucet Repair Cost With a Plumber
In Seattle and greater Puget Sound (2026):
- Service call (first hour): $95–$175 depending on plumber and whether it’s during business hours
- Cartridge replacement: Typically completed within the first hour; most plumbers charge the service call rate and include parts
- Ball faucet rebuild: Same as cartridge — one hour or less, service call rate plus $15–$25 in kit parts
- Compression washer replacement: 20–30 minutes — sometimes charged at a half-hour rate ($60–$100) if the plumber is already on site for something else
If the faucet is a premium brand (Kohler, Grohe, American Standard) with a proprietary cartridge, confirm the plumber has the part or can source it before the visit. Arriving without the right cartridge results in a diagnostic charge and a second visit.
What Causes a Faucet to Drip Constantly?
A faucet that drips continuously — not just drops, but a steady small flow — has a more significant seal failure or a component that can no longer close. Causes:
- Washer compressed completely flat — the rubber is gone, nothing is sealing
- Cartridge cracked — a ceramic cartridge disc can crack suddenly, causing continuous flow
- Valve seat corroded — the brass seat the washer or cartridge presses against has pitted, preventing a complete seal
- Packing nut loose — on compression faucets, a loose packing nut allows water to flow past the stem
A continuous drip from the spout that you can’t stop by tightening the handle typically means the valve seat is damaged. Valve seat repair requires a seat wrench and either resurfacing the old seat or replacing it — this is at the edge of most DIY homeowners’ comfort level and is often easier to hand to a plumber.
Can I Fix a Dripping Faucet Without Replacing It?
Yes — in most cases the faucet itself is fine and only an internal part needs replacement. Faucets are designed for this: the cartridge, washer, O-rings, and seats are replaceable service parts.
When replacement makes more sense than repair:
– The faucet is more than 20 years old and the cartridge is discontinued or unavailable
– Multiple components have failed (cartridge + valve seat + O-rings) — the cumulative repair cost approaches a new faucet
– The faucet body is cracked or corroded at the base
– The homeowner wants to upgrade the style anyway
A new mid-range faucet (Delta, Moen, Kohler) runs $80–$300 for the fixture; installation adds $100–$200 by a plumber. If the repair would cost $150–$200 anyway, replacement is worth considering.
Dripping Faucet Repair: Cartridge vs. Washer — Which Is It?
The repair you need depends on your faucet type:
You need a new washer if:
– Your faucet has two separate handles (hot and cold) that screw in and out rather than rotating
– The handles require multiple turns from off to fully on
– The faucet was made before 1980 — this is almost certainly a compression faucet
You need a new cartridge if:
– Your faucet has a single lever that moves side to side (hot/cold) and up/down (on/off)
– Your faucet has two handles that rotate (not screw) to operate
– The brand is Moen, Delta, Kohler, Pfister, or any other major modern faucet manufacturer
You need a rebuild kit if:
– The handle rotates in an arc (like a clock) rather than moving up/down or side/side — this is a ball-type faucet, common in older Delta single-handle faucets
If you’re unsure, look at the brand on the faucet and search “[brand] + [faucet model] + cartridge” — most manufacturers have model identification guides on their websites and sell replacement parts directly.
How Long Does a Faucet Repair Take?
DIY:
– First time, unfamiliar faucet: 60–90 minutes including the hardware store trip for parts
– With the right parts on hand: 30–45 minutes
– Experienced with that faucet type: 15–20 minutes
With a plumber:
– Cartridge or washer replacement: 20–45 minutes (most of the service call time is travel and diagnosis)
– Ball faucet rebuild: 30–60 minutes
– Valve seat resurfacing: 45–90 minutes
The job is fast once the parts are identified and on hand. The time variable is sourcing the correct replacement part — for unusual or older faucet brands, that can require a specialty plumbing supply house rather than a big-box hardware store.
FAQ
Q: Can a dripping faucet cause water damage?
A: A drip into the sink basin doesn’t cause water damage — the drain handles it. A drip from the base of the faucet or from the supply connections underneath can cause cabinet damage over time. If the drip is from the base rather than the spout, investigate the O-rings and the mounting connection more urgently.
Q: How much does it cost to fix a dripping faucet in Seattle?
A: DIY: $5–$35 for parts. With a plumber: $125–$275 total for a standard cartridge or washer replacement during a service call (2026 Seattle rates). Use the cost estimator for a specific estimate.
Q: Will a dripping faucet get worse over time?
A: Almost always yes. A worn washer or cartridge continues to degrade with each use. A slow drip typically becomes a faster drip within months. Fixing it sooner is cheaper than waiting — the worn component may also damage the valve seat if left long enough, turning a $15 cartridge repair into a $150 seat-and-cartridge repair.
Q: Can I fix a dripping faucet if I’ve never done plumbing before?
A: Yes — a cartridge or washer replacement is one of the most beginner-friendly plumbing repairs. The main requirements: the right replacement part, the ability to shut off the supply valves, and patience to take it slowly. The most common mistake is reassembling in the wrong order — take photos as you go.
Q: What if my faucet keeps dripping after I replace the cartridge?
A: The most likely cause is a damaged valve seat. The seat is the brass surface the cartridge or washer presses against — if it’s pitted or corroded, no new cartridge will seal completely. A plumber can resurface or replace the seat. Also confirm the new cartridge was installed in the correct orientation — some cartridges are directional and will drip if reversed.
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